Francisco Brennand and Suape

Yesterday was a very full day - the highlight was visiting the artist, Francisco Brennand on his 4000 acre estate near Recife. Francisco is the descendant of 19th century Irish immigrants to Brazil. His father ran a brick and tile works and Francisco inherited it. For the last 40 years, he has been working in clay and is about 85 years old. Before that, he painted and still paints in as he says "a more traditional and less controversial style." His clay sculptures, some of which are absolutely monumental, decorate the grounds of his estate as well as the interior of the converted tile factory and gigantic kilns. The buildings are absolutely beautiful. his cousin, Ricardo Brennand also has a sizeable estate but has chosen to house his 5000+ collection of swords in a medieval styled castle. He also has, in his collection, armor and paintings. We weren't able to see Ricardo's collection but had the opportunity to actually talk with the artist since one of the former ambassadors of Brazil accompanied us and is a personal friend.

I asked Francisco where the clay came from and what kind of glazes he used. He said that the clay was specially chosen from a place in Pernambuco because of its properties and the glazes were not scientifically applied or mixed but were rather the result of such a long experience with them. I took lots and lots of pictures of the sculptures, tile wall collages and the temple. Outdoors, he has a sacred site with a blue egg shaped dome that colors everything with a celestial blue hue when the sun is directly overhead.

I have to disagree with Lonely Planet's description of this famous artist and site. They describe his work as weirdly sexualized earthworms, lizards and frogs. Did they actually see his work? Yes, some of the pieces might appear phallic at first glance and yes, sensuality and sexuality is a part of Francisco's style but he makes frequent references to creation, mythology, history and biblical references with a twist. Adam and Eve are represented outside as is Cain but Cain is given complete redemption in Francisco's interpretation as he should be. He is the one who gave the gifts of the earth and the harvest rather than shedding the blood of animal in sacrifice to God. Frogs and fish emerge from the waters of the pools and fountains, large ceramic eggs stand on end ready to hatch into what the viewer chooses to imagine. Inside, Joan of Arc has two heads symbolizing perhaps her two natures or the way that she was both virgin and dressed as a man to get the job done of crowning the Dauphine King of France.

One can feel a mysticism and animism and spiritual force walking around Brennand's clay bodies and forms. He said that none of them can be moved or separated from each other. Another quotation that I found very inspiring was "My art may be immovable but it is not inert." In fact, nothing on earth is inert, not even rocks, rivers or sand. Everything is alive. Before leaving all too soon, I was able to buy a small sphere from the restaurant gift area made by Brennand that I will keep in my office in our new Art building so that I can be reminded of the Brazilian artist with the kindly face who is one of Brazil's most important living artists. If you go to Brazil you must visit both cousins. They are exceedingly kindly men, our tour guide, Ni tells us - she is a native Pernambuca native Brazilian - who do a lot for the poor in the municipality.

The talk about urban planning in the state was not as inspiring, I'm afraid. It focused on development of the Boa Viagem beachfront area and moving the poor out of their shanty towns along the waterfront where they eke out a living by fishing. The solution, unfortunately for low income housing is to move people out to the fringes of the city where it is nearly impossible to get to any kind of work situation. In some areas that we passed through in Recife like San Antonio and San Jose, there has been frequent flooding so that some houses that used to be for the wealthy were abandoned. Gabe and I have decided that we could start a business here with a power washing company to get rid of the mold that seems to constantly endanger the health of Recife's inhabitants. We would add a little bleach to it and then sell at low cost, dehumidifiers too. Gabe is my fellow Hawaiian from Hilo - he has taught at the community college there for over nine years so he's become an official Hawaiian native in my classification.

That was Monday July 11. Now today, July 12, we had an appointment to visit the new Port of SUAPE nearly one and a half hours away. It takes such a long time because first of all, the roads are terrible with potholes like you can't believe. And then there is the traffic. Anyway, we were presented with a 9 minute slick video about the publicly owned port of Suape (which we were given as well along with the power point on CD) which is giving private companies huge tax incentives to ship things in and out of Brazil. The tax break is around 75% so it will definitely benefit those private companies. There is a shipyard, fiberglass company, resin company and lots of others. They say they are dedicated to sustainability and maintaining a large green area around the port. They have two Goliath cranes that can lift 1500 tons which is important in shipbuilding. Suape has very deep water at its port and is the closest to Africa of any site in Brazil. Their plans are expansive and will give jobs to many Brazilians in this state. Well, more jobs as they are building the port and other buildings and less when the building is complete. Of the total number the private companies are supposed to employ 50% Brazilians - I imagine for the lower paying jobs.

I asked about waste management and air quality control for pollutants. I was told that containment areas were designated and when I asked where? I didn't feel that I was answered in detail but we were given the email account of the VP who spoke with us and he promises to find answers and then get back to us. Hopefully there will be no DuPont situations or oil spills. They have very close offshore oil sites and oil refineries are being built by Petrobras, the largest oil company in Brazil on the site as well. I took some photos from a site where our bus drove us so that we could see an over view. Pernambuco is one of Brazil's poorer states.

Is Brazil a country of the future? Will Brazil be able to reap the benefits the capitalism without selling its soul and the health of its people? Many other questions will come up I'm sure as I think about the ramifications of conservation, sustainability, social welfare, etc.

Islamic New Year

Delivered the two paintings to Soheir Osman at the Faculty of Applied Arts at Helwan University. Their International Festival is Monday, Dec. 21st, the Winter Solstice. She liked these paintings a lot. Met another artist,Dr. Mostafa Kamal. Will visit his new art school in 6 October city soon.

Yesterday, the 17th of December was noteworthy for being the Roman Saturnalia and the sunset start of the Islamic New Year. As far as the New Year here in Cairo, I was told by Ali (the IT guy at Fulbright) - he had come to work on my wireless - he said people eat meat. What? OK at iftar (the breaking of the fast at each Ramadan day or else the Eid - people eat meat especially the common people. Rich people eat meat a lot and Copts each pork. My sister Liz, does turkey AND ham on Christmas day and a rib roast on Christmas Eve if she can afford. I'll say, rib roast and beef tenderloin cost a lot. I'll be missing Peggy's awesome beef tenderloin with reduced port sauce and the scalloped potatoes with mushrooms.

"The Islamic New Year is a cultural event which Muslims observe on the first day of Muharram, the first month in the Islamic calendar. Many Muslims use the day to remember the significance of this month, and the Hijra, or migration, Islamic prophet Muhammad made it to the city now known as Medina. Recently, in many areas of Muslim population, people have begun exchanging cards and gifts on this day, though this is not commonly done. For Shia Muslims, Muharram is the month grief and sorrow because they mourn the death of Imam Hussain and his companions on the day of Ashura.

Ras as-Sana (Arabic: رأس السنة ) is the Islamic celebration of the new Hijri year. The term is similarly used in the Arabic language to mark the start of the new Gregorian year. The word literally means "Head of the year," and is cognate to the Hebrew term Rosh Hashanah. Since the Islamic lunar calendar year is 11 to 12 days shorter than the solar year, Muharram migrates throughout the seasons."

I made brownies today from a Betty Crocker mix -it was easier than homemade though we do have the ingredients to make Christmas cookies with brown suger, flour, eggs, spices, chocolate chips both milk and semi sweet and walnuts. I even found a molasses brown sugar so Dominique can try to make gingebreak cookies.

Today, I stayed at home and made some necklaces - well, as far as I could get without the necessary technique to finish them off. I spent all afternoon at the Khan el Khalili armed with my business cards for the Bedouin Shop to see Ahmed. I bought the most magnificent vintage Mosque lamp with colored glassw inserted so when the light shines through, it is gorgeous. I bought some beads and some more Bedouin stuff from Nasser brothers - he has a picture of himself with the Queen of Spain on the back wall. Tiny store. Had tea at the Pancake House and waited for traffice to die down around 7 pm.

New Abstract paintings completed

Picked up my two paintings, framed and adhered to the foam core board today from Mr. Helmy, aka, the Framer, on Yehia Ibrahim Street in Zamalek. I had to put the four freshly painted portraits on the one and add some calligraphy and color to it as well. Just tweaked the first one and got rid of the black line beneath the Bedouin portraits at the bottom of the painting. I'm posting the photos of the paintings as well as the el Nafeza paper paintings of the Bedouin woman and children. I figured since the paintings are based on a rusty door that I saw in Al Arish in north Sinai, that Bedouin women and children were appropriate portraits to add. Also, I did a little Arabic calligraphy. Thought I was spelling Bedouin door and Mother and children but also blurred those lines with paint. The door was rusty with layers of black, white, blue and yellow paint. I'm pretty happy with it and hope that my audience likes it as well. It's for an International Group Show at the Opera House probably Al Bab Gallery next to the Modern Art Museum again.

Cocktails on Jamie's Houseboat

Sunday, yesterday, Karl, Joelle and I were invited to Jamie's houseboat in Kit Kat, Imbaba, Cairo. Just past the Zamalek bridge, is Jamie's rental - it is very rare for anyone to get one of these as they belong to families who might come to visit a few months out of the year like the Sudanese family who own his and live in the U.S. Jamie's apartment is the upper floor of a two apartment houseboat. His is enviable - he has a very large covered patio space with a two bedroom, two bath, living room, dining area, kitchen and a wrap around porch. Everything, one desires in houseboat living. True, it does get cold in the winter and there is no air conditioning but he does have a TV - it came furnished too and has internet access. His beds look as if they can sleep three people each, he says five but the Brits get cozier than Americans. Our king sized beds are only for two.

I took lots of pictures and will be there again, as he invited us for a New Year's Eve party with about 30 people. I was hoping for a good invitation - I'll bring Carla as she will be with me from that time. Jamie has worked for Oxfam for the last 17 years and is just about ready to turn over his directorship - he officially stopped working for them but wants to pass on the baton so that his replacement is properly trained.

After plied with many glasses of beer, we staggered off to get to our party in Zamalek at the Lohof's. I was worried about my inebriation but apparently, others were feeling as happy as I was. We had to say au revoir to Karl last night as he was leaving early this morning to get back to Alexandria by train. He was such a good house guest - loved our conversations. I would love to find someone as nice but he is taken. We both have to leave Cairo on the 17th of January so he will probably spend his last day or two back at our place.

Will add more soon

Bedouin trinkets at Atef Wassef

Without too much trouble, I managed to get to the silversmith's store - Atef Wassef. Mona, the owner and pharmacist of Nefertari Cosmetics had told me about this store. Her jewelry is so gorgeous that I am going to try to copy the coral and silver necklace she was wearing when I met her. Atef Wassef is located downtown at 54, Kaleq Sarwat Street perpendicular to the Corniche and near the Nasser Metro stop. The store is colorfully painted on its exterior, pink, blue and white in arabesques. The store is huge, two life sized bronze horses in the front part of the store.

Mona, a new Egyptian friend I met in the White Desert and owner/entrepeneur of Neferari Cosmetics told me about Atef Wassef, whose store is downtown. He had two big baskets full of all kinds of Bedouin belts, necklaces, bits and pieces. As I and two assistants pawed through the piles, my hands turned black with tarnish. Bedouin pieces are usually 60% silver (which makes them cheaper per gram to buy around 3.5 LE). Right now I am wearing a wonderful ring with an intaglio horse carved carnelian stone with tiny turquoise stones on the sides. It could be from Turkestan (Afghanistan). For a heavy sack of things, it came to 1765 LE around $300. I have enough to make about 10-12 necklaces as I concentrated on buying pendants though I did purchase some earrings too. They are generally called zar pendants - meant to protect the wearer and attached not to the earlobe, but to a Bedouin woman, attached to her head scarf near her ears.

Another NGO in Mokkatam

Today I went downtown after the W.A.'s Christmas party. They had someone making Irish coffee with real Irish whiskey. The woman who fixed it for me (20 LE) was generous with the whiskey and there was plenty of fresh whipped cream. I bought a loaf of banana bread for 20 LE (omg, fabulously moist, redolent of bananas, no nuts but didn't miss them) and a date cake for 50 LE. Everything to benefit the W.A.'s coffers - they have charitable projects. Met a women there selling these bags made by a group of women at the Garbage Collectors Village but at St. Simon the Tanner's church there.She is Dutch (Fenneke) and has been working with the women here since May 2008. The Center there had a small training center for making clothes but they had no work and they asked her if she had work for them. After a few days, she found the cloth made in Egypt called Khayameya - it's made 100% in Egypt, 100% Egyptian cotton, colorful and very sturdy. She thought they would make good aprons and then brought the six yards of material she had purchased to the Center along with her apron as a pattern.

In August of 2008, she had the women making bags - one of which I bought for 60 LE. In one year, the women had made 2500 aprons and 4200 bags. With that, they can earn a fair trade salary, the Center was able to purchase several sewing machines and an industrial ironing board. Any profits benefit the Amalna Home which is an orphanage for 8 girls. A nursery for Sudanese refugee children in Nasr City with monthly salaries for 5 people, rent and electricity paid for as well as contributing toward Operation Smile Egypt which offers free surgeries for children born with cleft palate. I found some information by googling Amalna Home and Fenneke has given my information to Laila, a woman who now runs the organization at St. Simon's. Fenneke was going back to Nairobi and wanted to start some other NGOs but with the help of a few others as it is so much work to do it alone, she told me.

Nomad Store and a new phone

I thought today was the Christmas coffee party at the Women's Association in Zamalek and I got there around 11:20 but there was no one there. The party is tomorrow which is Wednesday. I just thought it was Wednesday because Dominique had school on Sunday as a make up class. Then I looked at my email and found that I had a package - it was the one mailed from Maadi - silver prayer beads that I want to use for my jewelry. I was hoping it was a package or two from Istanbul, also ebay but not. I went to the Nomad store, the big one and bought a gorgeous necklace and some earrings. I am going to redo the necklace and get two out of one once I switch the beads around. It turns out that Nomad gets different beads and amulets from Afghanistan, Ethiopia, Yemen, and makes a version of the vintage pieces. Hmmm, same thing I am doing. They served me tea today as the owner was in. It was real mint tea not the usual Lipton stuff I usually get served. Mostafa, or is it Mohamed? is going to make me some neck clasps because they do that too in a shop/workroom nearby. I love shopping.

More pics tomorrow and a story