Thursday, October 1, 2009

Cultural Tour

One of my favorite Egyptian foods (though it is also Greek) is the Moussaka - eggplant, tomato sauce and bechamel sauce on top and baked in a clay bowl. The other is the Um ali although I still haven't found my favorite one like I had two years ago. Little Maria (upstairs triplet) and I are going to make it from my Egyptian cookbook. I told her that the one I liked best seemed to be made with corn flakes. She suggested frosted flakes so we will try that and cut out some of the suger added. It also has raisins, pistachios, almonds and hazelnuts and milk. I forget the rest.
Yesterday, we had our lunch at Naguib Mafouz restaurant in the Khan Khalili - the gigantic marketplace full of kitschy souvenirs and also real Egyptian stuff like copper pots, instruments, etc. They had asked before hand whether anyone was vegetarian. When we got our main plate of food, I knew why. Yes, there was grilled lamb, charcoal grilled chicken chunks, those long cigar shaped lamb pieces - it's like hamburger and then oh yeck, tiny little pigeon grilled, spread eagled, very little meat, lots of bones. Now I have seen grilled pigeon at Abu el Sid but they were big pigeons. I played with mine and then put it on a plate. There was rice too. Before that we had the appetizers- baba ghanough, hummus, tzatziki, and wonderful fresh Egyptian flat bread all puffy since they just baked it. I sat at what the triplets dubbed "the table of coolness" it was a cushioned booth and I sat in a cushioned chair just next to them. We laughed and chattered away all through lunch. I gave Nick my cigar meat and told him we would ask for a doggie bag which he actually got!

The walk was long through Coptic Cairo - we visited two Coptic Churches and one Synagoue that is a museum. Our guide was an Egyptian woman with perfect English who had a PhD from Cairo University in ArtHistory. She really gave a wonderful explanation of the history and the architecture. She specializes in Islamic art history . She tied Egyptian art together from Pharaonic influence, to Coptic and then to Islamic. I had walked to the Fulbright office from Zamalek thinking that we were leaving at 9:30 - well, we were leaving at 9:00 and Hend called me to see where I was. Unknown to me, I was SIX blocks away and I ran to find the bus. I guess I am getting in better shape because I only started wheezing at block four. Then off we went.

After lunch, we went to Islamic Cairo to see a variety of mosques. I had been to all of them before but our guide explained how the differences came about. By the end of the day we were pretty tired out. Kathy and Karl needed to go to the bookstore so I volunteered to take the triplets home in a taxi. We got a good taxi driver! I negotiated the price and off we went. Right before traffic was really horrible. Kathy had invited me to have dinner a la Al Omda via our online ordering. I had my orzo soup again and rice pudding for dessert. We laughed, we talked and after a couple hours it was time for me to go downstairs to relax, check email and go to bed.

Found out my diplomatic boxes arrived and so I will pick them up today. I'm really happy about that and now Shayma and I can put some children's workshops together. I need to call the ecolodge in Fayoum today. Dominique will come with us too at least through Sunday. The eco lodge is right on the lake so yes, I will take my DEET in case there are mosquitoes.

I'm trying to get in the best shape so when I get back, people will say wow! I might even get extensions in my hair. Shayma says it is not expensive. Wouldn't that be a hoot! Hend said she would email me the phone number and address of a place downtown where they do pedicures and manicures and waxing - that will be a cultural experience.

Well, I just got an invitation for dinner tonight with Dominique and her friends in Maadi - about 20 minutes away from Zamalek. Brian is the curator at American University in Cairo and was Shayma's employer. I met him at the Art opening at the Townhouse Gallery Tuesday night. The contemporary artist's exhibition was four huge screens showing a rather strange series of scenes - Bedouin children making stone structures in the desert, a Bedouin man with a cow and microphone, tied to a wheel and picking up strange sounds that it made when the cow with a cone shaped object on its back and a plug for the microphone on it to pick up the music. Strange strange. But I liked it. It was at least a 20-30 minute film.

I saw a tiny little black kitten on the way to the Fulbright office. Oh, I wanted to scoop him up and rescue him. There are so many cats in Cairo. It is heartbreaking - I want to see if there are any veternarian schools. They need to sterilize the kitties. Oh well, so I will take off for another walk, but before that, I need my coffee and my yogurt.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

90 degrees in Cairo today

Sunday took a long walk to the Fulbright office in Dokki - about an hour round trip but it was soooo humid. And I can't help walking fast. Too much traffic - and no, I didn't just notice that. I hate the pollution, love the people. I started a painting then gave up as I was so tired. Monday, took it easy as well, tried to ignore the painting until I felt inspired.

Today, I finally decided I HAD to finish it and capture the woman's spirit. She has the hint of a smile and all the wrinkles of age. There was a woman I saw once begging in the street and she was an old Bedouin or Berber woman because she had tattoos on her chin. I thought it would be cheating though to paint on tattoos on my grandmother. I'll wait until I get to Siwa or elsewhere and see if I see another woman like that. I like to paint portraits but only if I like the person - they are not generic - and I have to be inspired by their soul as well as a personal experience with them in some way. I love how her veiled outfit turned out. It was tough going for a while and this is the third rendition. Hopefully, when I look at it again, I will be happy. I'm moderately happy with it now or happy enough.

Like the Prince song, "maybe I'm like my mother, she's never satisfied ..." When I have more of the series of Faces of Egypt, I think it will be better. I'm still amazed really at how Egypt has inspired me. This is part of my way of giving back, dedicating any success to the universal well being of Egyptians. These are memorial portraits of people living today in the 21st century

I signed up for a lecture presentation at Alexandria University along the lines of creativity and innovation in women's crafts in Egypt. Date to be arranged. Uh, I need something tangible to present so I think late November or so. Fulbright will pay for our hotel room, train ride to Alex and food stipend. Isn't that nice of them? I wonder if they would help with my conference in Davos? I'll have to ask Hend.

More later, meeting Shayma at 4:00 today - we are going to the Tentmaker's area where men make applique quilts, tents, etc.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Finished a painting

Last night, Dominique, Shayma talked about art and life in Egypt amongst other things, I was badgerd by Dominique to do another sketch. Having bought art supplies at a shop in Dokki, acrylic paints, paint brushes, canvases and paper, I had a late start this afternoon but finally completed one. Started out with a sketch of a Bedouin boy in South Sinai and dida watercolor wash but it looked too contrived, too stiff so I went over it in acrylic being much more free. It is in my Fauve style and I am pretty happy with it. A tad more work on the eyes and lips and my photo is not quite as colorful as the real painting. Dimensions are 11" x 15" and is on coldpress watercolor paper.

I also worked on more research about my research mapping out the destinations so that as little as possible backtracking will be done. One trip is Cairo to Marsa Matrouh along the coast. some workshops there. I found that FTE/Egypt Craft Center is another part of the Fair Trade Egypt Foundation aka World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) from 2001. Then a 4 hour bus ride to Siwa. At Marsa Matrouh, one needs to get a permit to visit Siwa. Shayma knows someone there so she will see if he will introduce us to his wife and then we can mingle with the Bedouin women - a difficult task otherwise. I read that on the full moon in Siwa in October there is the date festival, October 4 which would be quite a festival to witness. Will try to go there then.

A second trip is going to the Fayoum very close to Cairo and perhaps Bahariyya Oasis - Valley of the Golden Mummies.

Then there is the Dakhla oasis trip where there is a pottery festival in mid October. This can be combined with other visits. More later.

Supposed to go to a music concert at the Sawy Culture Wheel in Zamalek, close to my Alpha Market.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Food shopping and other stories

On my way to the Alpha Market today, I stopped by a pharmacy - Gohoumia Pharmacy on 26 July Street. It was a big store, they had the medication I wanted and I also bought some face cream -cucumber/yogurt for 5 LE. Then off to Alpha for washing powder (I know I've been overseas for a while when I call laundry soap, washing powder). Hellmann mayonnaise, sliced turkey, sliced cheddar, more yogurt, fresh baladi bread. I learned the secret for keeping my bread fresh. Freeze what you don't use that day and then defrost as needed. My diet is half Americanized and half Egyptianized.

On my way to the store, I am a keen observer of what is going on around me. I passed a woman carrying fresh bread on a large tray on her head. Remembering what Shayma told me about the bread sellers, that you get more for your money than at the store. Not knowing where a furna was (bread bakery) I thought, yeah, I'll buy some bread. Just as I was hesitating in my thoughts. I saw one fall off the pile; she stooped down to pick it up and put it back. And I thought, OK, I will just avoid the top of the bread pyramid. A half block later, about a dozen fell off. A man on the street helped her pick them up and put them back on her wooden tray. That did it for me. There was no way I could get the bread from the sides of the pile without the top portion falling off. Have you ever wanted a piece of fruit, like a really crispy looking apple, from the bottom of a pile and then apples start falling from the top? Of course, you have. Alpha market bread has touched (I assume) fewer hands and sidewalks since I think it is made in their store. At least, that is what I want to believe.

Other tricks I use while walking. When a man is walking too closely, I stop and look in a store window so I am behind him. Nobody gets to look at the tort, Cate! This time I got to look all over the store's second floor where housewares, shampoos and anything not food is sold. I bought a manicure set with toenail clippers, fingernail clippers, emery boards for 5.75 LE. After I found the Persil laundry soap, I walked around looking at everything. Shampoos, creams, and even hair coloring products. To my surprise they had Schwartzkopf hair color which is the best product ever. I used to get my hair colored with that in Santa Barbara but was never able to find it since. And it's in English and Arabic. Cool. So for fellow Fulbrighters, when they say don't bother taking shampoo and other products, take their advice. It lessens the weight of baggage.

Should go out for another walk but it's kind of nice at home. If so, I'll have to start another charcoal sketch in preparation for my watercolor. Hasta la vista baby!

Karkedeh Tea and Fig Juice

Woke up late again! I wake up early, then think, 8:30 is a little too early and then ... After being up for 10 minutes Shayma called fresh from the auspices of the U.S. Embassy. She had been there from 8:00 am until 1:00 pm, mainly waiting for her visa challenges. In the end, she was given her visa, no problem. And now, poor thing, her external hard drive crashed with all her documents and work that she had worked so hard to put together in one place. Dominique and I put blessings on it after she picked it up from the computer shop who had it for one week. And the dirty rotten scoundrels charged her 250 LE! they did give her a video disk with the data but it nees to be converted somehow and retrieved. She has to go to yet another computer place to see if they can help. So hopefully, my asking the universe will work.

Anyway, went first to the Marriott to get some money out of my Egyptian account Left the Marriott to get a taxi. Hailing a Marriott taxi would cost 54 LE from the hotel, walking outside would be around 20 LE I was told. I determined that I would pay no more than 15 and so a man just inside the confines of Marriott volnnteered a taxi. So we established the price, we walked across the street to a fleet of taxis. I asked for a new one and off I went with a nice taxi driver. A man who prays, as one can tell by the callous and bruise on the forehead. Of course, I wanted to get to the Townhouse Gallery and the directions weren't clear but got on the phone to Shayma and met her at a well known coffee shop called Groppi's with glass cases full of cakes and cookies.

Shayma was a welcome jolt of color, oranges and sunshine. We did the happy dance for her success. Off we went to the Townhouse Gallery - she showed me her work stacked up in storage. They were getting ready for another exhibition opening on Tuesday. We went upstairs to see the staff and I met William, the British gallery director. I also got to meet many other congenial staff members. I especially liked meeting Amina - Shayma, I hope I am spelling this right - he is now directing the children's workshops and will let us know about the next one. We also want to collaborate on other children's workshops. William was a mine of information about contemporary Egyptian artists who use traditional materials and methods in their own own work like the artist who lives in area where they produce baskets and mats - he used the technique to create animals and tableaus. Another artist had all the women of the husbands who did work in the gallery, building walls, making stands for sculpture -make dolls - the dolls are used for protection and are integral to the lives of the women and others living here. It reminded me a bit of the Fabric Workshop and Museum's work with artists translating their usual mediums of paint or sculpture to thread and silkscreen innovative expressions.

Then we went to the Mashrabiya Gallery nearby. Both galleries are the top galleries for contemporary art in Cairo. However, most of the artists promoted are well established. There really needs to be a venue for emerging artists, no kind of support currently exists for them. So Erin, what you do at the Barnstone Gallery in Phoenixville for new artists is a wonderful thing.

Shayma took me to a great fresh juice place called Mohamed Ali, it was established I think, in 1934. She wanted me to try fig juice. I love how she introduces me to new things. It came to 5 LE for the two of us and we got two glasses of chilled, freshly made fig juice. They have all kinds of juices that they make from fruit and even dates. She was reading to me the health properties of dates - pretty amazing - good for the blood, digestion, full of vitamins. As we were sitting on a planter surround of concrete, who came our way but Dominique, printmaker extraordinaire. Shayma turns everyone on to this grand juice house and she got another juice as we sat and talked about art and life! Dominique and I were hungry - I had eaten a Trader Joe's granola bar so we went back to the place we had had dinner last week - the area is called the Bursa that in the late afternoon puts out tables for people eating, drinking tea, smoking sheesha. We ordered, I got a hamburger on a bun with tomatoes and cucumbers, well cooked and Dominique got a fried egg sandwich with fries. I thought I was getting hibiscus tea but I got juice.

The funny thing or actually sad thing is that a bread delivery boy lost his balance and half his baladi breads fell on the floor of the "restaurant." So some was clean, relatively so, and the rest, well it was scooped up and brought inside. OK, you might be icked out at this but my brother told me when he worked in a drive-in they were told if a pizza fell on the floor while they were making it, to put on more cheese and serve. So don't think this is only Egypt. It did give me cause for thought though. I just said a prayer for my innards.

And then, a fight broke out. It couldn't get better. NOT. A dispute between two shops with bystanders joining in and others pulling the two fighters apart, a short teenager trying to prove his manhood. Testosterone flying everywhere, glasses breaking. Kind of a sticky ball that kept gathering more and more guys. As they were starting to get closer to our table, we stood up for safety inside the juice/tea shop. It went on for quite a while. It shook me up but Shayma says it's these guys who want to prove something, they yell and push but no one gets killed like they would in West Philly.

My taxi driving going home - a metered one was sooooo cheap and it was so easy. I wondered why the others kept taking me all over before "finding" where I wanted to go. Well, later on today, it's 12:17 am now, I need to go shopping for the mundane things like laundry soap, milk and other supplies. Did you know that my washer takes over 1.5 hours to wash a load. Be grateful my friends, for your conveniences. I know I am. Good night!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Art and Life in Zamalek

Wondering whether http://www.otlob.com/ was delivering food from restaurants, I chatted online and found that yes, most restaurants are serving. They said if not, they would call me. I ordered from Abu el Sid restaurant in Zamalek, very close by and well known for its typical Egyptian dishes. Aub el Sid is somewhat pricey by Egyptian standards and even American but I was hungry for some good food. I ordered the molokheya dish (a little like spinach but slimy) -- a soup with chicken and rice. On otlob you can leave a note for any special requests. I wrote that I only wanted chicken breasts. I have always had trouble with this in Egypt before. It is rather embarassing to point to my chest at KFC and say breast but online, no such embarrassing charades necessary. Besides, I always end up with the thigh or back or legs which I don't like. Thinking I might as well have two meals stocked up, I also ordered a veal casserole with hulled grains which came with a separate red sauce - I love Egyptian red sauce - it is sort of like marinara. For me, most orders are like two servings unless it is a sandwich. I remembered how good the eggplant appetizer was when I was treated to lunch by Safaa and Mounira last summer, so I ordered it as well. And of course, the best om ali in Cairo with nuts which I love, love, love.

I've already eaten some molokheya with rice and a few pieces of chicken. Very filling, low calorie and full of vitamins. This is the nutritional value of molokheya: If you have ½ cup for lunch and dinner, it has 20 cal, 1.3 grams of protein, 0.3 grams fat, 3.1 grams carbohydrate, 0.4 grams fiber, 87.3 mg calcium, 1,334 for beta carotene, 1.0 mg iron, 0.02 mg. thiamin, 0.04 mg riboflavin, 0.3 mg niacin, and 10 mg Vitamin C. Molokheya for dieters - maybe I should market this though I'm sure someone already has. I've looking up nutritional values for foods - my last google was for Hawaiian taro leaves and poi.

Lots of Arabic writings about molokheya - the bad leaves are yellow and veiny and a derogatory term for a woman was to call her molokheya, the yellow one from the Luk gate vegetable sellers. Aparently these sellers were not very ethical and sold old leaves. Good, healthy molokheya is said to be an aphrodisiac - so why do the Chinese insist on endangered species powdered rhinocerous horn, bear penis and other ungodly animal parts. Buy some viagra for heaven's sake! I did write about a sandwich on otlob last week or so called Viagra which was generally made up of shrimp, crab and sometimes squid. Of course, sellers in the Khan will tell you any number of items are aphrodisiacs like perfumes and herbs.

Well, off to the kitchen to eat a little of my om ali. I always say a little bit but then, it tastes so good, I eat the whole aluminum container! I will try to have some restraint this first day of Eid.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Weather and other things

Forecast today and next week - 90 degrees low of 73 with 45% humidity. We get a break in the weather Wednesday when it will be ....... drumroll ...... 89 degrees.

I feel pretty tired today, must drink more water. I downed a Fanta in about three minutes right outside Alpha Market. Gave 5 LE to an old Egyptian lady all in black sitting on the curb. I blew her kiss and she did the same. Funny how making someone smile and give them a flutter of happiness makes me feel so good. You know, I have a weakness for old ladies - probably because I never knew either of my grandmothers as they had died before I was born. When I was six and took the bus to school, my brother Joe who was nine never sat with me so I would sit next to old ladies. My mother said it was only OK to talk to them and talk I did, telling them about my day, they would show me crafts they were working on. I was so happy to be noticed.

I bought yogurt, what I think are beef burger patties but after eating one, I think they are more vegetable protein mixed. Still with melted cheese on top and in a bun, delicious and satisfying. Wasn't feeling my best on the walk home, kind of dizzy but made it. As I was leaving the little old lady and Alpha Market, the flower sellers approached me. They were asking 15 LE for a bunch of roses but I said 10 LE and walked away. They said 13 LE, I still walked and before I had walked more than a few feet, they agreed. I bought a bunch of flowers kind of like broom flowers, red violet in color. I bought them for Kathy's birthday who turns 50 tomorrow. She's the professor from Gettysburg who lives upstairs. She was so thrilled with them. I'll have to take a picture of them tomorrow.

While walking down 26 July Street, I passed a few tables of mercy filled with the poor who are given a meal for Iftar every day during the month of Ramadan. Then I saw a young boy giving plastic wrapped packets of dates -- when the taxis slowed, he would toss in a beribboned package. Ramadan is a time for generosity and it is beautiful to see such acts of kindness. Unfortunately, I did not take my camera with me today. I should always have it for these moments.

Now at home taking it easy - tomorrow begins the Bayram, or Eid days of celebration when Muslims spend time with their family maybe close to Christmas or Easter with Ramadan perhaps being like Advent or Lent for Christians. That's the closest thing I can compare it with but not knowing enough, I am not sure.

Hi all of my friends and family -- I miss you all. Love, hugs, kisses, Ginger