Monday means Saqqara

Today was our day to visit Saqqara and Dashur. I had called Mohamed, our taxi driver for pur taxi tour appointment last night and our agreed upon time was 10:00 am. He called this morning to tell me he was running fifteen minutes late. While waiting at the garage, we got an earful from his brother in law about the magnetic qualities of the pyramid at Dashur. He was trying to tell us that you go into the pyramid, it smells like ammonia (ugh, like the worst collection of cat pee ever) and then you go to the top chamber and go into a yoga pose and meditate for 15-30 minutes. He said you would feel tired but three days later, would have amazing energy. Hmmm. We couldn't get past the nasty cat pee smell. We couldn't wait to get out of there. Somehow, I don't remember it smelling that bad before but then it was at least ten years that I was there. We saw the Bent Pyramid from a distance and got back into our taxi. Katie was suffering from acute ammonia poisoning and then we went to Saqqara.

The best part of Saqqara is the limited number of people who go there. It was much cheaper than Giza which you can see in the distance. First we paid to get in, 15 LE for students and teachers. Katie must have batted her eyelashes and swung her blonde hair because she didnt have a student card but got the student price. Chris had to pay 30 LE. When we got in the area, I saw that admission to the New tombs was extra and the guard let us pay 50 LE for all three. A guy took us dowm to the tomb area which was discovered in 1954 but only open to the public for the past 5 years. He gave us a nice little introduction then called for the guard to open the tombs. Of course, I had to see them. The usual "no cameras, no photos" but still it was worth a look.

Our guard came clad in a dark blue gallabiya with grizzled face and sprouting facial hairs. He immediately launched into who the men were - two twin brothers who were high priests at Abu Sir and also the pharaoh's manicurists. You see, no ordinary person could touch the pharaoh because he was considered to be a god so it was a good side job for priests apparently. Here's where the fun began. Our guard said, it's OK for photos. Yessiree, I took lots. The boys are there holding hands, with baskets of food before them, there are men butchering cows, milking cows, calves being born all in super graphic detail. It was exciting because I had never seen them before and because I got to photograph the forbidden images. Plus, I tipped our guard 20 LE for the privilege. Then we went to another tomb with more scenes. The last tomb was not as colorfully painted but there were scenes of grape picking, graphe smashing and wine making. Now there's an article for a wine magazine or blog! Another 20 LE tip and our guard was quite happy. I took a picture of Chris with him and then Chris took a picture of me with him. Oh yeah, part of the tip was a pen which he asked me for. No problem, happy to oblige. I think he said he had six children, he may have been charged up by my proximity to make number seven - was that a compliment?

We walked to the Pyramid of Unas just up the causeway of Dynasty 5 which had covered over the tombs we had just visited. I had been in Unas House of Eternity before but this time it was closed. Too bad as there were the first pyramid texts on the inner walls of the tomb. they were bringing in camera equipment and it was closed to the public. We also asked about getting into the Pyramid of Djoser but that too was closed as it often is. There was a flurry of activity setting in new limestone blocks apparently to shore up the very first stone pyramid albeit in stepped mastaba form. some of the stones seemed to be in mid avalanche down the six steps. I told Katie and Chris about the heb sed festival of revealing the strength of the pharaoh. we made our way down to Mohamed and the taxi - tore into our turkey and cheddar sandwiches and decided to skip the Mastaba tomb of Mereruka. It was enough for the day which was very very smoggy with the rice straw burning and heat of the day. It was overcast but not in a good way.

Last stop, Nomad store on the Corniche Nil - larger than the small store in the Cairo Marriott - so Katie could buy a small pillow case with a camel on it. We got home, I opened a Stella Egyptian beer and went to bed promising the three kids that I would order pizza for dinner. Mohamed is taking them to the airport at 10:00 pm tonight so they have plenty of time for their flight back to Prague where the rest of their journey continues. The end for now. Pizza was great - I also got a small apple pie and a small lemon meringue.